Devices Needed In Making a Popeye Cabinet a 60 in 1

Ok, So I know allot of people will be coming to my page simply to find out what I used in effort to make this possible as Nintendo cabinets are always the least desirable to convert and leave allot of headaches. As I mentioned in the beginning I intend to add this board without destroying the integrity of the cabinet and to ensure that at any given point the monitor can be flipped and popeye will play fine or a 2 board DK Set can easily be inserted and it will be a genuine dedicated DK Cab.

First Component needed: Popeye Power supply Conversion Kit From Arcadeshop LLC - Now those of you who own the PP-900A Power Supply know that the only thing coming out of there is +5V nothing else. The conversion kit is a PCB Board and a Switching power supply that allows you to just move the pins from the existing PS and plug them into the one they send you giving you the needed -5V + 12V for all the other Nintendo Boards. Now the Original Popeye cabinets include a "Full" harness that has all the pins any of the other cabinets have but instead of carrying -5V & 12V On pin 5&6 +5V just go through both. The difference comes from the edge plate the harness connects to and the corresponding pins that come off and attach to the board are different (The short harness). I will be disregarding the PCB Board, Edge Plate and Short harness and just leaving them intact inside the cage in the cabinet and focusing on the main harness itself.

The second part needed is "Nintendo Classic to JAMMA Cabinet Adapter" This adapter simply traces the Nintendo 22Pin Edge adapter leads over to the Jamma Standard including additional labeled pins to add more buttons, a pig tail to bypass the monitor Audio on the Sanyo EZ as well as a built in video inverter. Now remember that -5V & 12V I was discussing earlier that I needed to come from the harness? Well this is why. Though the Popeye Monitor already has an Inverter board on it the adapter is configured to use the -5 & 12 from pins 5 & 6 to power it, now though I can manually invert its not good to send the wrong voltages to anything and besides you will also need those 12V to power the jamma board as well so all around its a must otherwise in the end you would need an additional power supply to provide the correct voltages to a molex adapter, either way you will need it so why not just do it this way? Now as I was saying before you will need an additional button for the 60 in 1 so I'm thinking I might use the P2 button for S2 on the 60 in 1. Please take note this piece is hand made and only offered by Mark at Cambridge arcade, I personally have a very difficult time with his communication style as he will leave you in the dark and you will hear nothing from him for weeks then suddenly out of nowhere he will send a message telling you a batch was made and ready to ship. So please be prepared to be patient if you choose to order this part and dont expect to many E-Mails or much support but I can ensure you the instant he tells you to send him money your parts will be out the next day and he does in fact deliver.

Lastly is the coin counter though optional it will help keep things authentic and everything working. The Coin Counter in your cabinet is running from 24V - this is a problem as there is almost no Switching power supplies that offer this anymore. The easiest method is to simply switch it out with a 12V counter, that way you can continue to use the function of the coin door as well its an easy swap to put back on when wanting to switch back to authentic.

When I am completed with the Cabinet and have everything hooked up I will take detailed pictures and as well do a Video covering everything on the cabinet restoration and the electronics within the cabinet but I just wanted to give those seeing me in the middle of my restoration wondering how I got the 60 in 1 PCB to work a quick explanation as to what was going on, in the meantime I am still busy priming and painting the cabinet